Surf in the Land of Light and Dark | Beyond the Waves of Brazil

César Ancelle-Hansen

PHOTOS: César Ancelle-Hansen

LOCATION: Rio de Janeiro, Brazil

Rio is an amusement park for young adults, replete with gigantic works, a hallucinatory landscape, ubiquitous music, scenery, warmth, sun, festivity, and festivals every day, an inordinate ambience.

“Do not go to Rio.” We are not far from the coup, there is the epidemic of Zika, and it has a global reputation as a very dangerous country. “Let’s go to Rio?” Yes, right now. Here it is, Rio de Janeiro, the city of the cariocas. The danger is everywhere but we do not see it. The danger is everywhere, but one does not see it, one does not feel it. We advise you to always stay in the light. Never go off the beaten track, and do not stay in the shade.
When the danger comes, it appears strongly and it can be very violent. The cariocas are incredibly kind and generous. Despite all the crises in the country, the atmosphere is unique. Nobody stops living. As if we were celebrating in an airplane as it breaks apart. Amazing light, crazy food, waves, music, volley, surf, capoeira, soccer, dance — girls, and boys do practically the same activities. Everything is possible in Rio. The girls are beautiful, the boys are, too, their muscled bodies tanned by the equatorial sun, exultant life sweats in every direction. Here, carpe diem is a defiantly pervasive attitude. The country takes advantage of and enjoys every moment. Despite the danger, you want to go back into the dance. And you are not disappointed.
Rio is an amusement park for young adults, replete with gigantic works, a hallucinatory landscape, ubiquitous music, scenery, warmth, sun, festivity, and festivals every day, an inordinate ambience. As for surfing? Of course there is surfing in Rio, lots of surfers and a very high level of surfing, but the country is so rich that surfing is just a point of detail in this incredible heap of life. We’re going to surf, indeed we’re here to surf. But there is so much to do other than surfing in Brazil that it remains anecdotal. It is like a drug too powerful: they urge you to use caution, it can be very dangerous — and then you throw caution to the wind and go. You find that incredible high, nothing bad happens to you and you want to go again.

César Ancelle-Hansen is a photographer from Biarritz.

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